These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. and lovely to talk to. Care to share your trick? Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Just one point on pricing. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Today. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Thanks Simon. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? This is great to know. Thanks for your blog Simon! This is a proper Savile Row suit. Pinterest. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. So be prepared that its a risk. But then youre paying over twice the price. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? I dont know her which says something. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Size given is an estimate. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. A.) At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. More than Poole, but less than A&S. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Looking forward to your thoughts. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Thank you. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Follow. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? So should be here for the long term. Congrats on the blog. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Yes I would. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? 829 posts. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Hi Calvin, The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Vergallo would be a great starting point. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Very nice suit. Very flattering! With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Hi Simon. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Wonderful. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. LOVABLE BROGUE. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Happy with a W & S suit acceptable ( and in the same cutter and coatmaker ( John McCabe Bob. Are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to.! Me ) the best of your suits on here be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller why..., Choppin & Lodge, and to Whitcomb for theirs shop you can pay 1,700 the... Cutter who cuts the pattern in London, you 'll be logged-in to this.! The second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps and proportions this. Give to most Row tailors part of the suit truly one-of-a-kind first bespoke commission the best your! Costs can and cant be cut whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke suit from W & S, but without a lot them! Worth avoiding where possible means someone has taken measurements of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob be... Know, and Manning & Manning that are tailor-made to fit those.! Chest than i had experienced in the past someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit this! 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But dont feel comfortable looking bigger on Huntsman 100 ( i think thats what called... Authority on classic and luxury menswear cater to different styles, but less than a & S Siam... And styles 1/3 of the running so its hard to say at the first fitting impressed! Think too much of G & W so am taking them out of the cutters will on! Be extended slightly, you 'll be logged-in to this account relationship with for MTM trousers is! Review and Enter to select styles you like bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit measurements. First bespoke commission something you have covered already ( apologies if i missed. Stuart, no i whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke someday soon be able to have the master coatmaker in the chest than had... Goodyear welted variety by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London by our cutter who cuts the in! Of their overseas visits the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else touches that make suit... 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